PHILOSOPHY
Winegrowing is a particularly interesting
continuum. When Eddy was a graduate student and post-graduate
researcher at UC Davis, he would often refer to the Department of
Viticulture (grapes) and Enology (wines) as the department of the
farmers and the chemists with nothing in common except the grapes, and
they’re actually adversarial at the point of transfer. Yet, he’d
never met a REALLY good winemaker who didn’t understand grape growing
or a REALLY good grape grower who didn’t understand winemaking (table
and raisin growers notwithstanding). At Microwinery, our philosophy
harkens back to the days when winegrowing was a single endeavor,
rather than the Henry Ford compartmentalization modern industries
employ for the sake of soulless efficiency. We are dedicated to the
notion that the wine in the glass should be reflective of the berries
on the vines.
Our winemaking evolved from the original vineyard
we planted. Our first Custom Home Vineyard® initially came into
production in 1984 and required vinification. We were swamped with
orders for new vineyard installations, so we hired a local winery to
custom crush the fruit for us. Our fruit received the worst care of
all the wines in the winery, and tasted like it. The following year,
we rented space in a commercial winery and produced a wine from the
same vineyard that won accolades. So began the winery operations for
Microwinery, with the help of a couple of professional winemaker
friends, Eddy took the clusters through the entire process. In the
hands of a grapegrower making the wine, the fruit is king throughout
the winemaking process at Microwinery.
All our wines are made exclusively from grapes we
control, whether it’s from the backyard vineyards our Custom Home
Vineyards® division plants and maintains, or vineyards where Eddy is
the vineyard consultant. Instead of compartmentalizing the components
of wine production as is commonly practiced by modern wineries, vines,
wines, and sales are fully integrated into the continuum of
winegrowing. We still believe that the ancient practices that made
wine a family endeavor—the family working the vines growing in their
back yards, the wines hand-crafted in small lots in an effort to
glorify the fruit, and the little old winemaker taking the family
wines to the neighbors—although we do admit to eliminating the
mule-drawn wagon and a couple of other traditional accoutrements.
HISTORY
From Eddy's inception as a home
winemaker in the 1970's, Microwinery began producing commercial wines
in 1985 for Klein Vineyards, which disbanded when the vineyard owner
moved off the continent. We then produced the wines for the
first ever vintages of Clos LaChance, until their plans for large
volume production was beyond Eddy's interest.
We've also produced wines that are
distinctly reflective of their vineyard owners. In 1994, we
launched Three Dog Vineyards after renovating the oldest vineyard in
Portola Valley, a prestigious community in the Santa Cruz Mountains.
In 1996 we established Microwinery as a label vineyard-specific to a
historical grape planting around a shopping mall in the Almaden
Valley, where grapevines and not computers were once king.
Berghoff Vineyards and Delta Diablo
Vineyard are two wines no longer produced by Microwinery. These
wines were designed to allow the vineyard owners to enjoy their grapes
being available to all with their single-vineyard wines under the
vineyard names, at least until those vineyard owners had to move.
The majority of the wines produced
by Microwinery are not available to the general public, as the
vineyard owners purchase the wines produced from their individual
vineyards as entire lots. How much more micro can anyone get
than selling an entire brand to a single household?
However, that doesn't mean all of
our private estate-grown wines are not available. Our Family of
Vineyards wines are due for release in the fall of 2007.
Although Lillipution in stature and yield, home vineyards afford
crafted wines that are ginormous in quality. Each vineyard, no
matter how tiny, is distinguished on the bottle of wine it fashioned.
Finally, a truly personal wine, from someone's home right to your
glass.
TECHNIQUE
We believe the worst way to make
wine is to apply a formula. By knowing each vineyard intimately,
we can adapt the techniques that feature it best. Nonetheless,
we do have certain goals we strive to achieve with winemaking styles.
Generally speaking, our white wines
are whole-cluster pressed, removing the harsh treatment
crusher-destemmers produce while grinding skins and seeds into the
juice. The juice is then cold-settled prior to fermentation to
have a more pristine fermentation. Barrel fermentation is
conducted in new French oak barrels for a subtle infusion of oak that
is allowed to slowly permeate and season the wine after it is
transferred to oak-neutral barrels, which allows proper wine
development without adding any more oak flavor or aroma. Flat
out, we do not believe that using steel, glass, or plastic, as is
commonly practiced for economic benefit, will do anything towards
making a better wine. Cool fermentation retains the fruitiness,
while aging sur lees adds the maximum body and depth. Minimum
filtration prior to bottling and presto, the grapes become wine for
your glass. Rather than MAKE our wines, we view our role as
shepherds fostering the grapes through their natural vinification
process.
Our red wines are fermented cool to
retain the fruit as much as we can. Warmer fermentation means
more color and tannin will survive the fermentation, at the expense of
the delicate fruity qualities. Since our vineyards produce
grapes with color and body to spare, we get to feature the fruit
without sacrificing a thing. We pay close attention to matching
the barrels to the fruit from each vineyard, always using French oak
barrels, from France rather than the cheaper French oak alternatives
commonly used by other wineries. If we feel the wine will
improve with the treatment, we may use fresh egg whites to fine the
wine, and only minimally when done. We NEVER filter our red
wines. The point is to have the wine taste like the grapes we
started with. And unlike Orson Welles who may have said it, we
really don't sell a wine before it's time.